Make Mdpv At Home
cup of water for each 1/2 pint jar you plan to prepare.
If you are using 1 pint jars you need to double the recipe. Mix all of
this stuff up well. This mixture is the substrate material that the fungus
will consume and use for growth.
The next step is to fill each jar with substrate material. Adaptation-20
This document used to suggest gently packing the substrate into the
culture jars. It has been found that keeping the substrate as loose and
full of air as possible is the best way to fill the jars. The jars will
colonize faster this way. Incidentally, the faster the jar colonizes, the
lower the risk that some competitor contamination will get a foot hold
and take over the substrate. Adaptation-3 Fill each jar to within 1/2
inch of the top with substrate material. If you run out of substrate
material, either mix up enough for one more 1/2 pint jar or cannibalize
a jar to fill up the rest of the jars. This is important because you need to
make sure the substrate is high enough in the jars for the spore syringe
to inject spores into it.
The top 1/2 inch of the glass on each culture jar needs to be cleaned.
No substrate material can be left on the glass above the compressed
cake. First wipe it with your finger to get the bulk of the material off of
it and then do a thorough job with a moistened paper towel. The glass
needs to be spotless. The reason this is necessary is that bacteria and
mold can use any material left there as a wick to infect the main
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How To Grow Magic Mushrooms The Magic Mushroom Growers Guide (page 2)
Next, fill the top 1/2 inch of the each culture jar with vermiculite. This
layer is pure, simple, dry vermiculite. Nothing else. Fill the jar level
with the glass edge. This layer is a break through pioneered by
Psylocybe Fanaticus. What this layer does is insulate the sterilized
substrate from any air borne contamination. This layer gets sterilized
with the substrate later and air borne molds and bacteria can not
(usually) get through it to contaminate the substrate. At the same time,
it allows some gas exchange to occur. The fungus needs oxygen and
gasses can filter through the vermiculite.
Now, place the jar lids in place. Normally, the jar lids have a rubber
seal that is placed in contact with the glass of the jar. Traditionally the
rubber seal is not placed in contact with the glass. It was placed on the
upper side of the lid. The reason was that people thought it would
make too tight of a seal. This does not seem to be an issue. If you wish
to follow tradition, place the rubber on the upper side of the lid. Screw
the lid down tight. Note that you need to have the four holes poked in
the lid in Step 1. Otherwise you can have real problems when you heat
these jars up!
Next, place a piece of tin foil over the top of each jar and crumple it
around the sides of the jar. This is to keep water dro The active ingredients in Herbal Highs have not been found to deplete serotonin – one of the major causes of depression in ecstasy users – which is a very seductive reason to use them as an alternative, especially when they are so good
in 75 ml of acetonitrile. The mixture is allowed to stand at
-20 C for about 1.5 hours during which the suspended material dissolves, and the d-lysergic acid is
converted to the mixed anhydride of lysergic and trifluoroacetic acids. The mixed anhydride can be
separated in the form of an oil by evaporating the solvent in vacuo at a temperature below 0 C, but this
is not necessary. Everything must be kept anhydrous.
Step II. Use Yellow light
The solution of mixed anhydrides in acetonitrile from Step I is added to 150 ml of a second
solution of acetonitrile containing 7.6 g of diethylamide. The mixture is held in the dark at room
temperature for about 2 hours. The acetonitrile is evaporated in vacuo, leaving a residue of LSD-25
plus other impurities. The residue is dissolved in 150 ml of chloroform and 20 ml of ice water. The
chloroform layer is removed and the aqueous layer is extracted with several portions of chloroform. The
chloroform portions are combined and in turn washed with four 50 ml portions of ice-cold water. The
chloroform solution is then dried over anhydrous Na2SO4 and evaporated in vacuo.
This procedure gives good yield and is very fast with little iso-lysergic acid being formed (its
effect are mildly unpleasant). However, the stoichiometry must be exact or yields will drop.
Step I. Use White light
Sulphur trioxide is produced in anhydrous state by carefully decomposing anhydrous ferric
sulphate at approximately 480 C. Store under anhydrous conditions.
Step II. Use White light
A carefully dried 22 litre RB flask fitted with an ice bath, condenser, dropping funnel and
mechanical stirrer is charged with 10 to 11 litres of dimethylformamide (freshly distilled under reduced
pressure). The condenser and dropping funnel are both protected against atmospheric moisture. 2 lb of
sulphur trioxide (Sulfan B) are introduced drop wise, very cautiously stirring, during 4 to 5 hours. The
temperature is kept at 0-5 C throughout the addition. After the addition is complete, the mixture is
stirred for 1-2 hours until some separated, crystalline sulphur trioxide-dimethylformamide complex has
dissolved. The reagent is transferred to an air- tight automatic pipette for convenient dispensing, and
kept in the cold. Although the reagent, which is colourless, may change from yellow to red, its efficiency
remains unimpaired for three to four months in cold storage. An aliquot is dissolved in water and titrated
with standard NaOH to a phenolphthalein end point.
Step III. Use Red light
A solution of 7.15 g of d-lysergic acid mono hydrate (25 mmol) and 1.06 g of lithium hydroxide
hydrate (25 mmol) in 200 ml of MeOH is prepared. The solvent is distilled on the steam bath under
reduced pressure. the residue of glass-like lithium lysergate is dissolved in 400 ml of anhydrous dimethyl
formamide. From this solution about 200 ml of the dimethyl formamide is distilled off at 15 ml pressure
through a 12 inch helices pa o get
into the benzene during separation pour everything back into the separator, let it
stand and repeat the separation more carefully. It is better to leave some
benzene layer in the water and emulsion than to get emulsion and water into the
benzene. Nothing will be wasted. All of the benzene which contains the
mescaline will eventually be salvaged. Sometimes the layers will fail to separate
properly. If this is the case immerse the funnel or jug in a deep pot of hot water
for two hours. This will break up the emulsion and bring about the separation.
Prepare a solution of 2 parts sulfuric acid and one part water. (never add water to
the acid or it will splatter; add the acid a little at a time to the water by pouring it
down the inside of the graduate or measuring cup containing the water.) Add 25
drops of the acid solution one drop at a time to the benzene extracts. Stopper the
jug and shake well for one minute. Then let stand for five minutes. White streaks
of mescaline sulfates should begin to appear in the benzene. If these do not
appear, shake the jug more vigorously for two to three minutes and let it settle for
five more minutes. I have found that when extracting mescaline from San Pedro
it is sometimes necessary to shake the mixture more thoroughly and for a longer
time to get the mescaline streaks to form. This is probably because of the lower
mescaline content in the plant. This would also apply to any peyote that does not
have a high mescaline content. After the streaks appear add 25 more drops of
the acid solution in the same manner, shake as before and let settle for ten
minutes. More streaks will appear. Add 15 drops of acid, shake and wait 15
minutes for streaks to form. Add 10 drops, shake and wait about 30 minutes.
Test the solution with wide range pH paper. It should show that the solution is
between pH 7.5 and 8. Allow the mescaline sulfate crystals to completely
precipitate. Siphon off as much of the benzene as possible without disturbing the
crystals on the bottom of the jug.
The next steps are to salvage any mescaline still in the water and emulsion layer.
Combine the benzene siphonings with the water/emulsion layer, shake these well
together for 5 minutes and let settle for two hours as before. Carefully remove the
benzene layer, treat it again with acid, precipitate the crystals and siphon off the
benzene as in the previous steps. Recombine the siphoned benzene with the
watery layer and repeat this again and again until no more crystals precipitate.
Siphon off as much benzene as possible without drawing crystals through the
The next step involves removing the remaining benzene from the crystals. There
are two methods to choose from. The first is the quickest, but requires ether,
which is dangerous and often difficult to procure. Shake up the crystals with the
remaining benzene and pour it into a funnel with filter paper. After the benzene
has passed through the filter rinse
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